It was my first trip to Bhubaneshwar and my friend Tapas who is a faculty there at KSRM took me for an outing to Nandankanan.. the local zoo.. I had not been to a Zoo for many years now and anyways there was not much to do at Bhubaneshwar so I was looking forward to the visit.
Even as we entered I was taken aback.. by the crowd.. it seemed more like a fish market at the entrance gates.. the atmosphere was like that of a mela.. I was almost afraid I would get lost and separated from Tapas who ventured into the crowd to get entry tickets @ Rs. 20 per person.
After a long line at the entry gates where the diligent guards were checking the tickets so seriously that for the nmoment I felt the Zoo waould really be very well maintained. As we crossed the "high security" barrier the place did open up as we were in the zoo area now and it was all open air.... no buildings..
As we moved ahead in the general direction that the crowd was moving.. I again started getting uncomfortable.. it was as if a marriage procession was on the way to get the bride.. the same commotion and excitement and shouting barring the music and the dancing.. and of course thre was no groom around either..
Suddenly, there were a few shouts and all ran in the direction.. and as I slowly ambled along to see what the excitement was all about.. and there was a "Slothbear" as the board there said.. but what I saw seemed very small and frail compared to all that I had read and heard about slothbears earelier.. "Come, lets go now to see the white tiiger" shouted the guide in Oriya to a assorted group that was following him and I too ambled along. I had not seen a white tiger earlier so was excited.
As we walked I looked at the facilities around and it seems that the construction was ages old, there was absolutely no maintainence. There were many enclosures that we passed that seemed vacant.. meaning that the upkeep of the animals may not hav been good and those animals are not there now.. made me sad..
As, we apprached an enclosure, where already there was already a throng of people pushing and shouting to get a peek at what was inside. It was a big enclosure.. open to the skies made to resemble the natural surroundings of tigers.. good atleast it was not a conventional cage as in a zoo.. apparently there was a moat going all around the area provided for the tigers but the moat seemed to have been without water for many years.. and then we saw the tigers...
The white tigers certainly looked so regal and beautiful.. and soon we saw more and I could count 3 white tigers resting or walking around the area. I would have loved to just quitley stand there and take in their beauty.. but the crowd was irritating.. irritating by the loud noise, chattering, running around of children, some of them shouting to the tigers to come closer since their camera could not get a goot shot from so far.. again I felt pity for the regal white tigers... as if the summer was not enough for their discomfort.. in fact, I felt guity of coming to the zoo and adding to the crowd...
Wiping off our sweat,we quitely moved ahead.. and we saw more tigers.. not the white ones and there was also a leopard (or was it a Cheetah.. I always get confused)...but what was common to all was their visible discomfort... Was I the only misfit there because as I looked around all seemed to be enjoying their Sunday with the animals.. all apathetic to their plight..
I imagined how majestic these Tigers must have loked in the real Jungles... the way they walked there is an air of authority and confidence about them.... they were just too good despite the decript surroundings these animals for once made you shudder and realize your own vulnerability and our weakness compared to them....
By now, my whole excitement for the Zoo had dwindled off and I just wanted to get out of there. As we kept walking to do the customary full round of the place the smae crowds, the shouting, the bad maintenence kept coming back again and again.. As, if this was not enough we found busses laden with people charging at quite a speed on the dusty roads.. These, were the animal enthusiasts who would now drive into the sanctuary to see the tigers in their own habitat.. and the situation of the tigers was no different inside is what I understood from Tapas.. for the Tigers these busses are a routine affair and they lie around without even bothering about them..
A little ahead was the starting point for the busses and again wew were greeted by much hollering for sale of tickets and lon ques to get into the bus.. wow. I did not know tigers were so popular.. how I wish they were not.. at least then they would have got some peace in this Zoo.
Nandankanan is too good.. a tourist delight... as we moved further. there is also a place for boating.. we could see a lot of hippos too and deer. and some cranes.. and finally we reached the exit.. and I was relieved.. Just as we were exiting there was a baby elephant that was surprisingly close to the exit fence with its keeper on the inside and all huddled around to look at it..
It seemed all were happy but the aniamls.. :-(. Is there a system that checks on such facilities and is responsible for maintaining them as 'animal sanctuaries' as the name says and not as cheap time-pass for the locals and tourists like me..
Does, it take too much to make out that the system is failing and that the animals are in utter disregard.. are the funds allocated for this facility enough and being utilized prudently.. or has the facility just become a means of livelihood for the keepers.. are the animals safe.. we saw a few men easing themselves out of the fencing from a seemingly de-barred area and they were carrying professional video cameras and equipment.. were they there legally??
All this left a distaste as I left Bhubaneshwar.. an otherwise sweet small city..
